The Snood/Caul
Snoods resemble hair nets. They are made of string-like strands, that can be placed over the back of the head, round the hair or tied round a bun. Some were elasticated, some crocheted and some were tied off with a string, but the main aim was to keep their long hair tied up and off their faces and necks. The word snood did not originate from the Elizabethans, but from the Middle Ages, around 725. They were often decorated with jewels and pearls and beads to match their dresses. Snoods were also worn by the lower classes who needed to keep their hair off their faces whilst working on farms. Below are images of snoods and how they would have been worn in the Elizabethan times.
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| Elenore Toledo wearing a Snood. |
Plaits, or braids, were very popular by the Elizabethan women after an Italian style. Image 1 is an image of a crown braid, this is when the braid is wrapped around the crown and down the back of the head. This style was very neat looking and kept the hair off their faces, this could be left in the hair for several days. Ribbons or threads were weaved in the braids, Image 2, to add colour and interest and accessories could be added. The richer you were, the more jewels and pearls were added to your hair look. Image 4 is a great example of how the braids can be mixed in style and positioned so intricately to create beautiful shapes and detail. Image 3 is another example of how braids could be incorporated into different looks as it looks like padding has been used to get the body of the hair in such an exaggerated shape and then the top layer of the hair has been braided into a french plait. Plaits were also used to make buns at the nape of the neck and this style would commonly be seen when the women would wear French hoods. I really like how braids can be adapted to fit different looks and I am looking forward to experimenting this!
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Image 1
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Image 2
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Image 3
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Image 4
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Attifet
As you can see from this portrait, the attifet was a piece of material laid on the head with a point falling down over the wearer's forehead to cradle the face in the shape of a heart. It usually had a wire frame to help keep it in place and was made of linen or silk (for richer people). . Attifets were usually white, but there were also black ones, which were called widow’s hoods. This type of headdress was first worn in France and then became fashionable in other European countries. It was made popular by Catherine de Medici and Mary Queen of Scots.
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Portrait of Mary Queen of Scots
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The coif was the simplest form of head covering and was worn in various styles throughout the 16th and 17th centuries. It was a simple type of close fitting cloth cap, tied under the chin, made of a light weight and light coloured material, usually linen, or silk for the better off. In the Elizabethan era hair was becoming something to be proud of and displayed, rather than something to be covered up for respectability, partly influenced by the fact that Queen Elizabeth proudly showed off her red hair. This meant that hats were becoming smaller, so that the coifs, often worn below more elaborate hats, were becoming more visible and more acceptable as a fashionable item of clothing, especially among middle and working class women, who found it totally impractical to try to wear the more elaborate and larger styles.
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London Gentlewomen
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Washerwoman
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The first sketch (by Flemish artist Lucas de Heere) shows coifs worn by London Gentlewomen in 1570 and the second sketch shows how similar the coifs worn by washerwomen in London were at the same time. Both sketches show the coifs quite far back from the forehead, but with another coif placed underneath, and both coifs come quite far forward at the sides. The front would have been wired to help keep them in place.
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